Advanced Knitting In The Round – part 3

In previous posts in this Advanced Knitting In The Round masterclass from Rosee Woodland, we covered the Magic Loop technique, laddering and cast-offs for use in the round. In our final post we will work through jogless joins and steeking.



Jogless joins

When knitting stripes in the round you will get a ‘step’ whenever you change colours, because you are essentially working in a spiral.

To avoid this, when changing colours, work the first stitch of the round in the new colour. At the start of the second round, slip the first stitch purlwise, as pictured above. Hereafter work as normal. Repeat the process every time you change colour.

AdvancedKnittingInTheRound22You’ll need to tighten the cut ends at these points, but once done the join should be almost invisible. If your stripes are three rounds or more deep, work as above. For skinny stripes of two or three rounds you may like to move your stitch marker

back one stitch per stripe, so that the number of rounds between stripes remains the same at the point where you slipped the stitch (which would otherwise be one round shallower).

For a full guide to jogless joins, see our Masterclass in issue 16 or find it or find it in our Masterclass section on this website.


AdvancedKnittingInTheRound23To make a ‘flat’ garment worked entirely in the round, you can steek it at the armholes and neck. This works best with garments using stranded colourwork as the ‘meshing’ of the alternating yarns helps to stabilise the cut edges of the fabric.

Cast on at least 5 extra stitches at each steek point, and then work them alternating between colours each stitch, as shown left.

Doing this bridges the gap between what would be the start and end of a row (e.g. the front of a cardigan), bordering each side with a single purled stitch to create a ridge for folding them back later. This will make the fabric less likely to unravel.

AdvancedKnittingInTheRound24When the garment is finished you can machine sew or crochet up two sets of the steek stitches to stabilise them and then cut along the entire length of the steek in between them.

Fold back along the purled edge and pick up stitches, eg for a button band. Work the bands and lightly tack down the folded back edges, which will hide the cut ends. After you have picked up for your edging the steek should lie flat, although it will be thicker than the rest of the garment.

For a full guide to steeking, see our Masterclass in issue 23 or find it in our Masterclass section on this website.

Rosee Woodland, knitting expertAbout our expert

Rosee Woodland is commissioning editor of The Knitter and is a knitwear designer with a special interest in construction. She teaches classes on knitting in the round.


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